Maria Grazia Chiuri's debut as Creative Director for Dior's Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection marked a significant turning point for the iconic French house. Stepping away from the overtly feminine and sometimes overtly sexualized aesthetics of her predecessors, Chiuri injected a powerful feminist energy into the collection, subtly revolutionizing Dior's image while still paying homage to its rich heritage. This collection wasn't just about clothes; it was a statement, a conversation, and a bold step into a new era for the brand. Let's delve into the details of this pivotal moment in Dior's history, exploring the runway looks, the beauty aesthetic, the models chosen, and the critical reception that followed.
A Feminist Manifesto in Fabric and Form:
The Dior Fall 2017 collection wasn't a radical departure from the house's established elegance, but it was a carefully orchestrated shift in perspective. Instead of relying solely on the "New Look" silhouette that defined Dior's early years, Chiuri presented a collection that was both contemporary and respectful of the brand's legacy. The collection's core theme was a subtle but potent feminist message, subtly woven into the fabrics, silhouettes, and even the accessories.
One of the most striking elements was the consistent use of embroidered slogans and imagery. These weren't flashy, attention-grabbing statements; instead, they were subtle, almost hidden details that rewarded closer inspection. These embroidered phrases, often feminist in nature or referencing powerful female figures, added layers of meaning to the otherwise classic pieces. This approach resonated deeply with a generation of fashion consumers seeking brands that align with their values.
The silhouettes themselves were a blend of classic Dior shapes and modern, androgynous elements. We saw the return of the iconic A-line skirt, but paired with more masculine-inspired shirts and jackets. The collection featured a range of textures, from delicate lace and sheer fabrics to sturdy wool and leather, creating a dynamic contrast that reflected the complex nature of femininity. The color palette was largely muted, dominated by earthy tones like black, gray, beige, and burgundy, punctuated by splashes of vibrant color strategically placed to highlight key pieces.
Runway Looks: A Symphony of Subtle Strength:
The runway show itself was a spectacle of understated elegance. The models, a diverse and inclusive group reflecting Chiuri's commitment to representation, walked with a confident grace that perfectly embodied the collection's spirit. Several key looks stand out:
* The embroidered slogan tees: These simple yet powerful pieces became instant icons, featuring phrases like "We Should All Be Feminists" – a direct reference to Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's influential essay. These tees were paired with tailored skirts or trousers, showcasing the collection's ability to blend seemingly disparate elements.
* The tailored suits: Chiuri modernized the classic Dior suit, offering variations that ranged from sharp and structured to softer, more fluid interpretations. These suits were often paired with delicate blouses or crisp white shirts, maintaining a balance between power and femininity.
* The sheer blouses and lace dresses: These pieces offered a softer counterpoint to the more structured elements of the collection. The use of lace, a Dior signature, was reimagined with a modern sensibility, appearing less overtly romantic and more subtly sophisticated.
* The statement outerwear: The collection featured several striking outerwear pieces, including long coats, capes, and jackets, many of which incorporated the embroidered slogans or featured unique textural details. These pieces added an air of mystery and sophistication to the overall look.
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